Vents and gauges
Now from this vantage point you should be able to see all of the gauges and all of the screws that hold them in. You can remove your two center vents by the four screws and it comes right out. The small dash bezel block off plate is held in by two push pins and need to be popped out in order to get at the last screw holding in the lighter (and defroster if you have one). Remove the three screws for the lighter and pull it out so you can get at the plugs in the back. When you pull the plugs off, get that masking tape ready. You'll want to wrap a piece of tape around the wirers for the plugs you just removed and label them. Now, you can do a couple of things here.... you can wrap all three of the plugs together and mark them or mark them individually like Fuel/Volt Left and Fuel/Volt Right, but most of the plugs on the back of each gauge are different. Like on the back of the fuel/volt gauge, one plug is shaped like a "V", one is a light bulb, and the other is shaped like an "L". But either way, you need to mark these wires as you remove them. Again, taking photos is also helpful.
The next thing you want to get out of your way is the heater control unit. Remove the three screws that hold it in and it will slide out a little. Remove the large plug at the top and also the plug on the right and label them accordingly. The next two things you have to remove is the heater door cable and also the vacuum lines. The heater control cable is held to the top heater box by a screw and a clip. The clip holds the loop at the end of the cable to the door post and then is held in place by a screw.
Once those two are free, you are able to slide out the heater control unit a little more to be able to remove the vacuum lines. Some people remove all of the vacuum lines and then plug them back in when done. Make sure you make a diagram if you do this. You can also remove the whole unit by removing the screw on the right hand side. Once that screw is removed, you can rotate and swing out the vacuum module to remove it without having to remove and of the vacuum lines themselves.
The next thing to remove would be the speedometer and tachometer cluster. You can reach around the back, or come up from underneath and disconnect the speedometer cable. It is held in place by a push clip. Push it in and the cable will pop out. You can now remove the screws that hold in the cluster and slide it out. Unplug the cables in the back and again labels them accordingly. The large central plug has a clip at the top and bottom that need to be depressed to un-hook it from the gauge cluster. For the large plug you may also want to put a "T" at the top and a "B" at the bottom of the large plug to make sure you put it back the right way. Now you can work on removing the headlight switch and the wiper switch. You can reach in again from the side and unplug the wiper switch and label the plugs. The headlight switch unplugs from the bottom. Once you remove the screws, you need to rotate the headlight switch 90 degrees counterclockwise to slide it out.
Ok, now we have pretty much removed everything we need to to be able to access everything we need to remove the dash. There are a few more things that need to be done in order to totally remove the dash. You need to unhook the parking brake release cable from the parking brake itself. You can use a set of needle nose pliers to un-hook the cable and then slide the top clip out to release the cable entirely.
Now depending on your interior and what options you have there are anywhere between 3 to 5 wires left that need to be unplugged before you remove your dash. The 3 wires left would be one ground wire which is attached by a screw to the lower metal dash support on the drivers side located under the parking brake release handle, and two wires and plugs which are the two switches for the doors which turn on your interior lights when the door are open. Remove the ground wire and unplug the two interior light switches (one on the passenger side and one on the drivers side).
Now, if you have the deluxe lamp group as part of your interior options, there are two lights that are under the dash that need to be removed as well. They are held in each by one screw. Remove those screws from the underside to detach the lights from the dash. Ok, now everything you need is disconnected from the dash and it is time to remove the 3 screws, three speednuts and the last two remaining bolts that hold the dash in. The first two item to remove would be the two bolts located at the bottom two outside lower corners of the dash. They are on the bottom of the dash located right next to both kick panels. Once you remove those, you can pull gently on the lower section of the dash to free it from those points.
The next thing you want to remove are all of the screws along the top rail of the dash. There are three screws located along the top drivers side of the dash that hold it to the metal dash panel. You have to lay down on your back and look up to be able to see them. On the passenger side, if you look up through the glovebox opening, you will be able to see the three speednuts located on studs that are attached to the dash itself.
Ok, now that everything is removed that holds the dash in, you can lift up on the dash and pull it towards you to to expose the last few steps in taking your dash out of the car. The only thing that is left is removing all of the wiring harness that is clipped into the back of the dash (like the one shown in the photo below). They are located all along the back of the dash. It would be best to save all of the clips and also use the masking tape again to put a small tape line on what part of the harness attaches to what part of the dash.
Now the dash is totally free and can be removed from the car entirely. Since everything is out of the car, now would also be a good time to clean up behind the dash from the 30 years of dust that has probably accumulated back there. Also, if you have any plans to make any changes like putting in a new front speaker or changing out your heater core, now also would be a good time since it is all free and accessible. It would also be easy to put a new coat of paint on your steering column if that is chipped or faded.
Once you have the dash out of the car, you can remove the remaining items from the dash to install on your new dash. If you have the deluxe interior and have the grab handle located on your dash, it is held in the back by two screws. Remove the two screws and also the metal retaining clips that they were screwed to and transfer it over to the new dash.
Remove the three remaining dash vents and duct work from the back side of the dash (the three that were highlighted in yellow in the diagram above). The center vent is actually held in by a screw located on the front face of the dash and then slides out. You will also need to transfer over the two outside vents located in the dash itself. They are simply held in by clips that pop off and then the vents slide out. The last thing would be the parking brake release handle itself. It is held on the back by a large "C" clip. Remove that clip and slide the parking brake release handle out of the front of the dash. Transfer all of these items to your new dash and reverse the process above to install the new dash into the car.